Provence – October 2008

Our camping trip to Sanary-sur-Mer in Provence, October 2008

Date

Activity

Mon Oct 13th

Drive to Sanary-sur-Mer via Millau Viaduct

France – The highest bridge in the world: the Millau viaduct spanning the Tarn River Gorge

Lin and I, and our ageing border collie Bonnie, and towing our ‘pop-up’ caravan, drove the 673 kilometers from Correze in central France, to our pre-booked slot at Camping Parc Mogador near Sanary-sur-Mer in Provence.

Sanary in Provence: Camping Parc Mogador campsite

Tue Oct 14th

Walk down to Sanary, and explored the town

Woke to bright sunshine. Bought some bread at the campsite, and had breakfast at the caravan. We then decided to walk the mile and a half or so, down to Sanary town centre and harbour. It was a nice walk, through attractive suburbs with shady gardens. And downhill all the way!

Sanary town centre and L’eglise Saint Nazaire.
Fishing boats in Sanary Harbour.

We wandered around for several hours, punctuated by the occasional bar stop. Then walked back up to the campsite. After all the wandering, the walk back up the hill was a bit too much and we resolved to find a better way, or just drive down in future. Had take-away Pizza for dinner.

Wed Oct 15th

Drive to Six-Fours-Les-Plages for lunch and drinks, then Les Sablettes and Toulon, then around Sanary

The waterfront at Six-Fours-Les-Plages

Weather was overcast, so we decided to drive down the coast. We drove to Six-Fours-Les-Plages and had a wander around until it was time for lunch. Then we took the Corniche Varoise across the peninsula towards the harbour at Toulon, driving through Les Sablettes and ending up at the isthmus of Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer.

The harbour at Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer near Toulon in Provence

We then followed the coast north towards Toulon, and saw several ships of the French navy anchored in the harbour, including an impressive aircraft carrier.

Ships of the French navy

We stopped at Fort Balaguier and took some pics of some dilapidated old wooden boats.

A vendre – just needs a lick of paint!

At La Seyne-sur-Mer, we picked-up the road back to Sanary, and took the opportunity to do some supermarket shopping.

Sanary town center in the evening

Spent the evening in Sanary and found a nice bar, where they kept refreshing our bowl of nuts, until we found we no longer needed dinner!

Thu Oct 16th

Drive to Bandol for a look around, then drinks; and then to Le Castellet.

Bandol

Drove into our neighboring resort Bandol, some 5 km away. It’s a pleasant town with a nice promenade and some seriously up-market houses.

Bandol suburbs

Bandol lacks Sanary’s natural harbour, but instead has a modern marina and no shortage of yachts across the entire class spectrum. We had a wander along the promenade, and then up into the suburbs to the west-facing sandy bay, the Anse de Renécros. Then back to the prom for a well earned beer.

A luxury wooden yacht

We briefly considered taking the ferry to the isle de Bendor, separated from Bandol by not much more than 150 metres, but objected to paying 10 euros each for somewhere we could almost wade to!

The Isle de Bendor
The pretty hilltop village of Le Castellet in Provence.

After lunch, we drove inland to the pretty hilltop village of Le Castellet. We spent some time walking the narrow streets; then more beers,

An interesting balcony in the hilltop village of Le Castellet in Provence.

And then we saw an art gallery with some very striking paintings on display. We went in and chatted with the artist, Gerard GREGORI, who we discovered had no fingers so he couldn’t hold a brush. He gave us a demonstration of his technique, which was to spread the paint with his hands onto white acrylic. The paintings were very distinctive and they were not outrageously priced, so we ended up buying one original and one print. This is the print….

A Gerard Gregori painting
Le Castellet
Le Castellet: Lin and Bonnie in front of the Hotel de Ville.

There were fantastic views from the village across classic Provençal landscapes.

A classic Provençal landscape, taken from the hilltop village of Le Castellet

Fri Oct 17th

Drive to Calanque de Port d’Alon and had a wander round the headland, then to La Ciotat and onto the beach at Calanque de Figuerolles. Then Sanary in the evening

The Calanque de Port d’Alon in Provence

A nice sunny day, we decided to drive 11 km to the nearest calanque… a Provençal word for a rocky cove. This was the Calanque de Port d’Alon and it was a lovely spot to just wander over rocky ground and through the pine trees, catching an occasional glimpse of the turquoise sea.

The coast near Port d’Alon in Provence

After Port d’Alon we continued to La Ciotat; a largely industrial town known for it’s dockyards full of luxury motor yachts being built or renovated.

La Ciotat

The real appeal of La Ciotat is it’s coastline of calaques, beaches and headlands, all with weird rock formations.

The Calanque de Figuerolles and the distant Rocher du Capucin

On close inspection, the geology of the area is known as ‘pudding’ (poudingue in French). It’s a tightly packed conglomerate of pebbles and stones, which given exposure to winds and sea, seems to erode in strange ways.

La Ciotat in Provence: the The Calanque de Figuerolles

Back to Sanary for evening drinks.

Sanary habour and L’eglise Saint Nazaire.

Sat Oct 18th

Take the Calanque boat trip from Sanary

We left Bonnie in the caravan awning, packed a picnic lunch, drove down to Sanary Harbour and joined the excursion boat trip to the Calanques of Cassis and Marseille.

Provence in France: Calanque De Port D’Alon

First on the list was the Calanque de Port d’Alon we’d walked the previous day.

Interesting coastline at the Calanque de Figuerolles near La Ciotat and Cap de l’Aigle

Then to the Calanque de Figuerolles we’d also visited the previous day, but the strange rock formations could be seen very clearly from the boat.

Striking rock formations near La Ciotat and Cap de l’Aigle.
La tête de chien… the dog’s head near Calanque de Figuerole, La Ciotat
Bec de l’Aigle near La Ciotat in Provence.
Striking rock formations near La Ciotat and Cap de l’Aigle

We travelled under the dramatic cliffs of Cap Canaille as we approached Cassis. At 363 metres, these are the highest sea cliffs in France.

Provence in France: the cliffs of Cap Canaille and the Sémaphore du Bec de l’Aigle.

Next up was Calanque de Port Miou, which sadly is lined with yachts that prefer not to use the more expensive facilities of Cassis harbour.

Calanques de Cassis; the Calanque de Port Miou

Just around the corner was the quiet Calanque de Port Pin, and then we arrived at the dramatic Calanque d’En Vau.

The dramatic Calanque d’En Vau, near Cassis, Provence
Rocky headland with Cap Canaille in the distance.
Traditional Provencale fishing boat with the cliffs of Cap Canaille in the distance.
The Calanques of Cassis and Marseille: Calanques de Morgiou
The Calanques of Cassis and Marseille: the port in Calanque de Sormiou.

We eventually reached the Calanque de Eissadon, and after around 3 hours of calanquing, and by now just around the corner from Marseille, we saw the Calanques de Morgiou and finally de Sormiou.

The coastline near Cassis in Provence: the awe inspiring La grande Candelle and the Massif de Puget.
The lighthouse in Sanary Harbour

That was a fantastic boat trip! Back to Sanary harbour, and drinks and nibbles at La Vague Bleue.

Sanary Harbour lit by the setting sun.

Sun Oct 19th

Walking on the escarpment of Gros Cerveau Ollioules, then drove to La Cadière d’Azur

Provençal landscape from the escarpment of Gros Cerveau Ollioules

Partly cloudy, so we drove inland to a feature we’d seen on maps called the escarpment of Gros Cerveau Ollioules, which looked like it had extensive views. It was quiet so we had a nice walk with Bonnie, and took a few photos. Afterwards, we drove to another hilltop town called La Cadière d’Azur and had a little explore.

La Cadière d’Azur

Mon 20th

Rock formations at Grès de Ste Anne d’Evenos, and drive to the village and chateau of Evenos.

La Cadière d’Azur from the escarpment of Gros Cerveau

Revisit the escarpment of Gros Cerveau, and had a longer walk.

Strange rock formations at Grès de Ste Anne d’Evenos

We then checked out the rock formations at Grès de Ste Anne d’Evenos, and then the village and chateau of Evenos.

Typical Provencale landscape near the village of Evenos.
The village and chateau of Evenos.

Evening walk along the coast ending up in our ‘usual’ bar in Sanary.

Sanary in Provence: the evening sun catching a rocky headland
Sanary town center in the evening

Tue Oct 21st

Rain, and then a last visit to Sanary in the evening

Formation sailing! A sailing school near Bandol in Provence

A showery day, so we stayed fairly local. Then a last evening visit to the Sanary waterfront, and of course, drinks!

Provence in France: A mobile toy shop, spotted next to Sanary harbour

Wed Oct 22nd

Drove home

Overnight rain continued well into the morning, and we still had to pack everything away, and load up the car. It was nearly lunchtime by the time we got away, so it was quite late back to Correze.