Our grand tour of Peru
Spoke to Cindy of Exoticca on Saturday Dec 7th about this trip, and the problem was doing the English Language version meant flying from Heathrow to Lima via Miami (18 hours). If we wanted to fly from Madrid, we’d get the Spanish Language tour. The solution was to book the English version as a ‘land only’ tour, and make our own arrangements for flying. This would cost £2,288 for the two of us, and airfares (Madrid to Lima) were coming in at around €2,356.
It turned-out that there was only one tour, in English AND Spanish, so I imgine if we’d known this, and taken the Spansih package, we could have saved some money. Thanks Exoticca!
Anyway, we went ahead for the tour that starts on September 7th, 2025, and paid the 60% deposit of £1,372.80. The balance of £915.20 to be paid 60 days before departure.
Date
Activity
Kilometers
Sat Sept 6th
Drop Bowie off (pay Sue €130), then drop car off at APM at Calle Newton 25, Malaga, who will then shuttle us to the RENFE station, Malaga.
Take 11.59 train from Malaga, arr: Madrid at 14:50 (Carriage 22, Seat 2B/2C) (Trainline.com booking reference 5JG5KN, PNR Code H5NB4J).
Took a taxi (15 km) from Madrid Atocha train station to the airport hotel, INNSiDE by Meliá Madrid Valdebebas (55 Calle José Antonio Fernández Ordóñez, Hortaleza, 28055 Madrid).
It was a nice hotel, very quiet despite proximity to the airport, and had a nice roof terrace. In the evening, we sat outside in the courtyard,
70
Sun Sept 7th
Fly from Madrid to Lima (Elevation 116 metres)
Decent breakfast, then took the hotel shuttle to Madrid Barajas, Terminal 4S. Take the Iberia (Booking ref: Q3T40) 12:50 flight arriving in Lima at 18:00. Transfer (at our cost – 23km) to hotel.
Spent the evening at Ibis Lima Reducto Miraflores, Lima. Lima was grey and gloomy. We were not impressed with the hotel rooms. There was nowhere to open our suitcases. And the restaurant was basic.
9498
Mon Sept 8th
Lima to Arequipa (Elevation 2,300 metres). Overnight in Hotel Corregidor by Cassana.
Transfer to the airport in Lima to board the 08:30 flight to Arequipa, and take the shuttle to the hotel.
In the afternoon, there’s a Half-Day City Tour of Arequipa
“Discover the beauty of Arequipa where you will familiarize yourself with its top attractions, including spectacular views of the El Misti, Chachani and Picchu Picchu volcanoes and the picturesque Santa Catalina Monastery.”
Duration: 03:00h Approx. Pick up time: 14:00h.
A very early start for the 08:30 flight to Arequipa. We flew near the Nazca Lines, but dirty windows on the plane meant we couldn’t see anything. A very chatty taxi driver took us to the hotel in Arequipa. The hotel was OK, but on a very noisy street.
And then, an underwhelming coach tour of the city. We ended up being monasteried-out, and decided to walk back to the hotel. We tried to get some cool beers in the hotel restaurant, but they only had one! So I drank beers full of ice-cubes. Dinner in the hotel.
774
Tue Sept 9th
All day in Arequipa (Elevation 2,300 metres). Overnight in Hotel Corregidor by Cassana.
A free day, so we walked (in the wrong direction!) to the huge under covered market. Then walked to the river but when we got there, we found that we couldn’t actually get to the river!
Walked back into the centre and had fruit juices. Then stopped in the Paseje Catedral for beers. In the evening, we walked to a nearby restaurant, but found they were only serving drinks, so dinner in the hotel again
7
Wed Sept10th
Arequipa to Colca (Elevation 3,600 metres). Overnight at the Hotel Casona Plaza Ecolodge, Colca.
“Breakfast at the hotel. Today, transfer to Pampa Cañahuas (67 km), a magnificent location with an impressively diverse local fauna, including vicuñas. From here, you will stop in Patahuasi and Tocrapampa (44 km) to contemplate their natural beauty and array of bird species.
“Next, you will make your way to Chivay (81 km) to enjoy a buffet lunch (at your expense) before transferring to your hotel in Colca (8 km) to enjoy the rest of the afternoon at your leisure.”
Long coach trip from Arequipa to Colca, stopping at various places for lunch, photo stops, toilet breaks etc., whilst slowly gaining elevation on the Peruvian Altiplano.
At Mirador de los Andes near Patapampa, we reached an elevation of 4,910 meters (or just over 16,000 feet). I remember walking to the hundred meters or so to the rest rooms, and had a weird tunnel vision as I came out. Others on the trip fared less well, and needed help getting back on the coach.
We saw plenty of Vicuña and Alpaca on the Peruvian Altiplano. Then dropped down into the relative comfort of Chivay (at 3,400 meters) for a self-service lunch and beers (including Guinea Pig and Alpaca). Had a doze in the hotel, then more beers, and finally an omelette and a glass of wine for dinner.
192
Thu Sept 11th
Colca to Puno (Elevation 3,920 metres). Overnight at the Casona Plaza Hotel Centro, Puno.
“Breakfast at the hotel. Enjoy a day of adventure as you make your way to Puno from Colca where you will get to visit the Cruz del Condor (35 km), a prime spot to gaze at the beautiful Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world. If the weather permits, try spotting the majestic Andean Condor, the largest flying bird in the world.
“From here, head to the town of Maca (19 km) to visit the church and local market before continuing on to the town of Chivay (23 km) for a delicious buffet lunch (at your expense). Your next stop will be to Patapampa (29 km) to admire the impressive volcanic landscapes.
“Finally, you will make a stop in Patahuasi (53 km) and in Lagunillas (144 km) to marvel at the beauty of the local fauna. Then to Puno (125 km)
A long day, starting with breakfast in the hotel, we set off in the coach and stopped in the plaza at Yanque for the market, dancing and other festivities; then onwards through all the stepped terraces (andenes) of the Colca Canyon towards Cruz del Condor, which was the inspiration for the most famous Andean song, El Cóndor Pasa.
As we got close though, the guide suddenly said to the driver “Stop here!”, and there were several condors soaring above us, wheeling around trying to catch thermals.
We stopped-off for a brief look around the village of Maca, then back to Chivay for lunch, followed by a loooong drive to Puno. Late in the afternoon, we pulled over at Laguna Lagunillas because the driver knew that there were long delays ahead, due to roadworks and a contra-flow system, which finished at 18:00. It was a last opportunity for photos and toilet breaks until Puno.
The hotel was in a pedestrianised part of town, so the coach dropped us off and we had to walk 1 km or so. We checked into the hotel, and then walked to the pleasant La Casona restaurant near the Plaza Major and Cathedral.
395
Fri Sept 12th
All day in Puno (Elevation 3,920 metres). Overnight in the Casona Plaza Hotel Centro, Puno.
“Breakfast at the hotel. Today, take part in a mesmerizing visit to Lake Titicaca.
“Start this exciting journey by visiting the floating islands of the Uros and Taquile where you will get to interact with the first ethnic group that arrived in Puno 3700 years ago. You will become acquainted with their daily lives and even visit their houses.
“You will then make your way to Taquile island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its stunning landscapes including an immense lake and snow-capped mountains of the Illimani. Enjoy lunch with locals as they sing and dance to traditional music.”
After breakfast in the hotel, we took the coach to Puno Harbour on Lake Titicaca. Then a fast boat took us to the very strange Floating Islands of Uros, where we met some of the locals, had a trip on a traditional reed boat, and bought a colourful model of a reed boat.
We continued to the picturesque Taquile Island for an outdoor lunch, and then back to Puno. In the evening, we walked to La Casona restaurant (again) and were regaled by an Andean Pipe band (and bought their album on a memory stick).
68
Sat Sept 13th
Puno to Cusco (Elevation 3,300 metres). Overnight in Polo Cusco Suites, Cusco.
“Breakfast at the hotel. Early morning departure towards Cuzco, located in the middle of the Peruvian Andes and ancient home of the Inca Civilization. The city is also famous for its spectacular main square, cobbled streets, and houses with terracotta tile roofs that will remind you of some ancient European villages. You will navigate the route from Puno to Cusco by bus where you will be making stops along the way to acquaint yourself with some top attractions.
“You will first be visiting the Lithic Museum and archaeological complex of Pucara before heading over to La Raya, where you will stop at the highest point to take in the view of the beautiful landscape. Next, you will enjoy a delicious buffet lunch.
“From here, you will visit the archaeological complex of Raqch’i, also known as the Wiracocha Temple, the tallest Inca structure discovered to date before ending your adventure at the Church of San Pedro Apostol in Andahuaylillas. Board your bus once more for a transfer to your hotel for check-in.“
Another long day’s coach travel. A fairly boring (Lithic) museum, the altiplano landscape at La Raya, then the Inca complex at Raqch’i where I bought some Andean pipes. We didn’t bother with the church at Andahuaylillas. Polo Cusco Suites was a nice modern hotel in Cusco, where we had dinner overlooking the lights of Cusco.
387
Sun Sept 14th
Cusco to Machu Picchu (Elevation 2,316 metres).
“Breakfast at the hotel. Today, an exciting day awaits you in Machu Picchu, one of the 7 wonders of the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Transfer to the village of Ollantaytambo (62 km) to travel by train (43km, 90 mins) to Aguas Calientes* (Machu Picchu village) and enjoy the beautiful green mountain scenery along the way.
“Once there, transfer by bus to the ancient Inca city of the Citadel (9 km) for approximately a 2:30 hr visit which may take place in the morning or afternoon depending on availability. Enjoy the spectacular views of this Peruvian treasure built in the 15th century at an altitude of more than 2000 meters.
“Return by bus to Aguas Calientes and, depending on the return train schedule, you will have free time to explore the town at your own pace. Travel by train back to Ollantaytambo, transfer to the hotel and overnight in Polo Cusco Suites, Cusco.“
Arrrghhh! My birthday… we were all in the reception of the hotel waiting for the coach for our trip to Machu Picchu. Except there was no coach! Nothing from Exoticca, but we heard from a couple who had an earlier slot that there were no trains running from Ollantaytambo!
Still very little information from Exoticca, so around 11 am, we gave up waiting, and we walked into Cusco centre, where we had beers and lunch at Mushroom’s ‘Mama Africa Lounge and Bar’ on the Plaza de Armas, whilst monitoring the situation with Condor Travel and Exoticca for another attempt at Machu Picchu tomorrow.
We noticed when we left the bar, that at ground level was the Inca Rail office, so I went in and asked when services between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes would be resumed, and she said there had been a problem, but everything was now running normally!
We went back to the hotel for a siesta, and then up to the hotel bar for drinks, when we got confirmation from Condor Travel that the trip had been re-arranged for tomorrow. Yay!
To celebrate (well that, and the birthday!), we took a taxi into Cusco centre and had a nice meal at Mulli Wine and Steak overlooking the Plaza de Armas.
232
Mon Sept15th
All day in Cusco (Elevation 3,300 metres). Overnight in Polo Cusco Suites, Cusco.
An even worse day! The coach took us to Ollantaytambo on the off-chance trains were running – but they weren’t. We hung around the station for a couple of hours, then our guide dragged us up the road, where we ended up in a crowded restaurant waiting for news, but nothing… it ended up long, tedious and totally wasted day.
Dinner in the hotel restaurant on the top floor.
232
Tue Sept 16th
Cuzco to Lima (Elevation 116 metres). Overnight stay in Ibis Lima Reducto Miraflores, Lima.
“Breakfast at the hotel. At the scheduled time, you will transfer from the hotel to the airport to board the 10:57 flight to Lima. As the capital of the country, Lima offers for its award-winning Peruvian gastronomy, two miles of parks along the Pacific coast, museums and gorgeous colonial Plaza de Armas.
“Upon arrival, you will be assisted and transferred to your hotel for check-in. Enjoy the rest of the day at your own leisure. Take this time to explore the capital of Peru at your own pace.”
Spent a long time at Cusco Airport waiting to check-in. Then a long coach trip to the hotel, and Lima was just as grey and gloomy as before. And I don’t remember much leisure time either! We walked to the local shopping mall in the evening, where they had a choice of bars and restaurants, and ended up having an argument over the price of drinks!
581
Wed Sept17th
All day in Lima. Overnight stay in Ibis Lima Reducto Miraflores, Lima.
“Breakfast at the hotel. Embark on a half-day city tour of Lima where you will acquaint yourself with the colonial part of the city. Start by exploring the districts of Miraflores and San Isidro before heading to the Historic Centre, where you will find the impressive Santo Domingo Convent to the Casa de Aliaga, home to the famous conquistador Jerónimo de Aliaga.
“From here, make your way to the Plaza de Armas and gaze at the beauty of the colonial architecture before making a stop to the Larco Museum which houses more than 45,000 pieces depicting five thousand years of ancient Peruvian history.”
Did some packing, then some lunch and the Lima city tour. A lot of monasteries, plazas, and palaces, and a lot of walking! I got a migraine in the Larco Museum. In the evening, we went to a very crowded Papagiani Pizza Restaurant, and seemed to jump the queue for a table!
18
Thu Sept 18th
Fly back to Madrid.
“Breakfast at the hotel, then make our own way to the airport (Terminal 2) (transfers not included). Take Iberia 11:00 flight, landing in Madrid at 05:50.”
Overnight on the plane.
9498
Fri Sept 19th
Land in Madrid, then taxi/Uber to Atocha station and the 08:30 train to Malaga (Carriage 2, Seat 6B/6C)
Arrive Malaga at 11:12 am.
Pickup car (€87 in cash) Pickup Bowie
528
