Madeira 1999

Our holiday in Madeira, 1999

Date

Activity

Tue Nov 2nd

Drove to hotel near Gatwick Airport.

It was an early morning flight to Funchal on November 3rd, so we found a hotel near Gatwick, where we could leave our car.

Wed Nov 3rd

Fly Gatwick to Funchal in Madeira

Hotel Madeira Palacio

We landed at Funchal around lunch time. We joined the Airtours coach to our hotels, and with a certain inevitability, we were the last off the coach. Actually, we shouldn’t have been, but Sarah the rep explained that our chosen hotel, the Monumental Lido, was near a building site with lots of noise, so they bumped us up a grade to the Madeira Palacio (which used to be the Madeira Hilton). It was out of town and not terribly convenient for any of the attractions, but it was a fantastic hotel, so we were reasonably happy about the swap. The tariff we chose was half-board, so we were entitled to breakfast, and either lunch or dinner. Most of the time we chose dinner as there wasn’t much to do nearby in the evening, so it was a good way to while away a couple of hours.

Dinner at the hotel.

Thu Nov 4th

Funchal

Funchal in Madeira: the cathedral and town centre.

An overcast but warm day. Took hotel shuttle bus into Funchal, and wandered around, enjoying the colourful flowering trees. We had scabbard fish for lunch on the balcony of a restaurant (Bistro 13?) overlooking the Jardim Municipal do Funchal.

Had 4 pm meeting with the Airtours rep Sarah to see if we were happy. Rain and high winds in the evening.

Dinner at the hotel.

Fri Nov 5th

Bus to Camara dos Lobos.

Câmara de Lobos, Madeira.
Câmara de Lobos, Madeira
The cliffs of Cabo Girao, Madeira, taken from Pestana Bay near Câmara de Lobos.

Nice day. Took a bus to the next village along the coast, Camara dos Lobos (which was Winston Churchill’s adopted home)… had a little wander round, but the weather was hot, so we adjourned to a bar for beers.

Sat Nov 6th

Monte Palace Gardens.

The church at Monte in the northern suburbs of Funchal, Madeira

Took the bus to Monte, and walked to Monte Palace Gardens. Had lunch at the restaurant there.

Monte Palace Gardens
Monte Palace and the Tropical Gardens – Funchal in Madeira.
Monte Palace Gardens
Monte Palace and the Tropical Gardens – Funchal in Madeira.

Dinner at the hotel.

Sun Nov 7th

Porto Moniz, Ribeira de Janela.

Central Madeira. A typical mountain village.
Porto Moniz on the north side of Madeira.

We’d arraned for a rental car which was delivered to the hotel. We drove to Porto Moniz, with it’s natural swimming pools, then (through a waterfall) to Ribeira de Janela national park.

Porto Moniz on the north side of Madeira.
The natural pools at Porto Moniz, Madeira.
Our hire car
The Ribeira da Janela valley, on the north side of Madeira.
The Ribeira da Janela valley, on the north side of Madeira.

I took photos of the dramatic Ribeira de Janela valley and coastline, then we drove further along the coast to Sao Vicente, where we had a beer overlooking a dilapidated house, with a tree in the middle.

Sao Vicente

Then back to the hotel via the mountainous centre of the island. Nice day, but hazy.

The rugged heart of Madeira

Returned the car, then dinner at the hotel.

Mon Nov 8th

Funchal.

Took the shuttle bus into Funchal. Wandered around for a while. Then we walked along the seafront to the old part of Funchal.

Funchal in Madeira: the church of Santa Maria Maior

Took photos of the church Igreja de Santiago Menor – Igreja Matriz de Santa Maria Maior, including an inside shot. More exploring, and then had some lunch.

Funchal in Madeira: inside the church of Santa Maria Maior

Dinner at the hotel.

Tue Nov 9th

Machico.

Took the bus to Machico. Not much there, had beery lunch, and took a photo of a Bird of Paradise flower, then took bus back. Dinner at the hotel. Afterwards, there was a party in the hotel (that we had to dress up for, so I had to buy a tie!), and free tasting of different Madeira wines.

The cliffs of Cabo Girao, Madeira, taken in early evening from the hotel.

Wed Nov 10th

Hotel, then Funchal for dinner.

Explored the hotel gardens, and played some table tennis. Lunch at the hotel (on the terrace). Dinner at Arsenio’s restaurant in Funchal for the Fado singing.

Looking down on our local beach from our hotel balcony

Thu Nov 11th

Funchal and Curral das Freiras.

Curral das Baixo in the Nun’s Valley, from the overlook at Eira do Serrado.

Took bus to Curral das Freiras (Nun’s Valley). We got off the bus at the tunnel and walked to the Eira do Serrado bar/restaurant where we had beers. I left Lin with her beer while I walked to the nearby mirador for photos.

Nun’s Valley (Curral das Freiras) on the island of Madeira.

We then walked through groves of sweet chestnuts, down to village of Curral das Freiras… a height loss from the mirador of 1000 ft. By this time, we were ready for a drink and a bite to eat. Took bus back to Funchal, and shuttle to hotel.

Madeira: the northern suburbs of Funchal, looking inland.

Dinner at the hotel.

Fri Nov 12th

Walked the levada from Estreito da Camara dos Lobos to Cruz da Caldeira.

We took the bus to Estreito da Camara dos Lobos, and walked the levada from there to Cruz da Caldeira. The levada was broken at one point, and some local kids came to show us which way to go. Then they stuck their hands out for money, and seemed pretty disgusted when I gave them the equivalent of a pound. One of them hit Lin with stick, so we threatened to call the police. Not very nice.

Sat Nov 13th

Funchal’s Botanical Gardens..

The town of Funchal in Madeira

Got a taxi to a viewpoint over Funchal, then spent a couple of hours in the Botanical Gardens, and I seem to remember we bought some orchids in the shop.

Madeira: Cactii in Funchal’s Jardim Botanico
Madeira: Cactii in Funchal’s Jardim Botanico

In the afternoon, we took the bus inland and got off at the start of the Levada dos Piornais walk.

Walkng under vines near the start of the Levada dos Piornais walk
Madeira: a view from the Levada dos Piornais.
Madeira: walking the levadas – the irrigation channels that run around the mountainous terrain.

It was a lovely walk with fantastic views, but suddenly he skies darkened and we were stuck in the middle of nowhere with no wet weather gear, and it was now raining heavily. We sheltered as best we could, but we were pretty damp by the time we got back to the hotel. Dinner at the hotel.

Sun Nov 14th

Drove to Santana, Faial and Porto da Cruz.

Madeira: a view from one of the mountain roads
Porto da Cruz and the north coast of Madeira
Porto da Cruz and the north coast of Madeira

We had booked a rental car again. Drove to Santana on the north coast of the island, and then to Faial, where we watched the go-kart racing after the recent rain. More rain on the way back. OK weather back in Funchal.

It was a ‘Fisherman’s Evening’ at the hotel, complete with seafood buffet. Lin was so stuffed after the buffet of shellfish and langustine that she had no room for the main course! I’d saved some room and had an excellent seared tuna.

Mon Nov 15th

Funchal.

Rained all day, lunch at hotel. Took shuttle into town in the evening, but it was wet and cold, and other than a few nuts with our drinks, we ended up not eating.

Tue Nov 16th

Ribera Brava.

Ribera Brava

Took bus to Ribera Brava for lunch. I went for a little wander out of the village for some photos.

Hotel Madeira Palacio: the view from our balcony

Wed Nov 17th

Funchal to Gatwick.

Flying out of Madeira

Flew back to Gatwick, picked-up a frost covered car, and drove home.