Notes from our holiday in Egypt, March 2019
Date
Nov 7th, 2018
Activity
We wanted to have a two week trip to Egypt, including a 7-day Nile Cruise. Lin saw a Guardian advert for affordable holidays through ‘Egypt Escapes’. I then spent nearly two hours on the phone, mainly because every time I thought we had the right permutation of dates, resorts, hotels, cruises and costs, along would come some problem. Case in point was when we found that the hotel we preferred, although it was a beach hotel, it turned out the adjacent beach was owned by the hotel next door, and the patch of beach the hotel had rights to was a shuttle bus ride away!
Then there was the issue of the ‘all-inclusive packages’. We’d already agreed that we wanted full board at the hotel and on the boat, and for convenience we went for the drinks package too. Something like £120 pp for the hotel and similar for the boat. A total of around £500. We noticed that the details listed cocktail, spirits, and beer, but didn’t mention wine. So we checked with Egypt Escapes and they said “the list is indicative, and not a comprehensive list. Of course you’ll be allowed to drink wine”.
It wasn’t a cheap holiday, but we assumed that we wouldn’t need much spending money other than tips and gratuities.
Wed Mar 13th
Fly from Malaga to Gatwick, stay at the Gatwick Belmont Hotel in Horley
This is a nice hotel; and runs shuttle buses to Gatwick Airport. It has bar/restaurant with a ‘traditional pub feel’ and sells real ale and pub grub, so we had a beer when we arrived, and then a leisurely evening of wine and food.
Thu Mar 14th
Depart Gatwick at 11:00 on EZY8861, arrive Hurghada at 18:45. Look out for agent for ‘Meeting Point travel’. Take coach to Coral Beach Resort, Hurghada.
Took the shuttle bus back to Gatwick. Then the Easyjet flight to Hurghada.
It was nice flying over the desert in twilight. Shades of things to come was being panhandled in the men’s toilet at the airport. We’d already arranged our tourists visa beforehand, but this counted for nothing at Hurghada Airport, and we had to pay an agent to do it again. Then lots of standing around waiting for our coach. A tedious drive to hotel, via umpteen other hotels. Hotel room (chalet) pretty good though.
The cacophony as one walked into the self -service (Mermaid) restaurant was unbelievable, and put us in mind of prison canteens (from films!) Then the food was truly awful, and the wine, both the red and the white, were simultaneously nasty and watery… completely undrinkable. In the bar afterwards, we hoped for better choices but found (despite the assurances at the time of booking) that they didn’t serve wine. The list they gave us wasn’t ‘indicative’ at all.
Fri Mar 15th
At leisure in hotel
The hotel was full of Egyptian men wearing replica football shirts, talking loudly, occupying all the seating, and smoking at every opportunity.
Had a wander round the hotel grounds to the beach. Saw the Red Sea for the first time. Beach very nice with bars on sand spits, but sadly everything was closed. When we could sit, we sat drinking beers and reading our Kindles.
Another awful meal in restaurant. Didn’t bother with wine. Then sat in the bar drinking very weak vodkas and tonics. We suspected that even the vodka was watered down.
Sat Mar 16th
At leisure in hotel
A boring day with high winds. More reading and beer drinking.
We were entitled to one meal in the up market ‘Andiamo‘ Italian style restaurant, so this is where we ate a reasonable meal with table service and a £14 bottle of wine (not part of the ‘all inclusive’ deal of course!)
Lot’s of noise from the outdoor arena, and it seems the local men were all at the hotel for some convention – the next day, they’d gone.
Sun Mar 17th
Early morning start for coach to Luxor for the Nile Cruise. Picked-up our ‘breakfast boxes’ for the journey. Overnight on the MS Emilio.
Many pickups from other hotels, before starting a long tedious journey across the Eastern Desert to Qena, and then following the Nile south to Luxor. Police and/or military checkpoints every few kilometers. Then the long process of dropping people off to their various cruise boats.
Finally, there was just us and another couple, Chris and Molly, and we were eventually dropped off at our boat, the MS Emilio. It was a well appointed boat with nice accommodation, self-service restaurant with good food and drinkable wine(!), a downstairs bar, and another one on deck.
One downside… I’d checked on Google Earth the orientation of the boats at the various ports, and based on that, asked for a starboard cabin so that we’d have a river view when we were stationary. Our cabin was on the wrong side. When I went to the information desk the manager said it was quite random which way the boat moored, so we relented. It turned out that he lied. Every morning we ended up facing the shore, or even worse, alongside another boat so we were looking into each other’s cabins.
And sadly, Lin was starting a cold.
The Meeting Point rep (name?) on the boat was also an Egyptologist who would be our guide for the shore trips. We met with him to discuss which trips to take. Not knowing what our stamina would be like (lot’s of walking, hot sun, etc.), and since the full package was around £200 pp, our inclination was to under commit and play it by ear. We also thought we’d be able to get taxis from the boat, and do the things independently if we so decided. He convinced us to take the full package plus the optional Abu Simbel trip, and with hindsight he was right.
We were assigned a table in the restaurant with about 8 other people (including Chris and Molly), and looking round to other tables, realised we could have done a lot worse!
Mon Mar 18th
Overnight on the MS Emilio, still in Luxor.
Early breakfast, and then onto a coach to take us to Valley of the Kings. We could see the region from the boat, but it was probably about an hours drive by coach, as we had to travel 20 km just to cross the Nile. Anyway, we parked up and took a road train to the area of the tombs. Even though we’d paid in advance for all the trips, we had to pay an extra £12 to be able to take photographs.
There were something like 8 tombs open to the public and our tickets entitled us to visit three of them. On the advice of our guide, we did the Tombs of Ramesses IV, Ramesses III and Ramesses IX. They were fantastic! The wall art and hieroglyphics were just stunning.
Some of our party paid extra for the optional tomb of Tutankhamun, but of course most of the contents are in museums in Cairo. Anyway, from the reports back, it sounded underwhelming. Even though we’d made an early start, it was very hot, and everyone was seeking the shade at every opportunity.
Valley of the Kings was followed by visits to the Temple of Hatshepsut (very good), and the Colossi of Memnon, and then back to the boat for lunch.
Back in the cabin, we found a pair of swans canoodling on the bed. Spent the afternoon relaxing and drinking beer.
Then a pleasant evening of dining and drinks in the bar.
Tue Mar 19th
Overnight on the MS Emilio. Trips in Luxor, and then the boat starts journeying south.
Another early start, this time to the Karnak Temple complex in Luxor. A feature of these trips was that on arrival, we were fed a lot of background information by our guide. I often felt that there was more information than could be retained (but perhaps that was just me!)
The photographer in me was raring to go at these sites, but we’d often be listening to the guide for 30 minutes or more, and coach-loads of people were arriving every minute and it was sometimes a little frustrating watching the site getting more crowded.
But some of the information stuck, and afterall Karnak was wonderful. And at one hundred hectares, the site was large enough that it was easy to lose the crowds.
Lin knew we’d probably need to do places like Karnak at different paces, so we split up. I was wandering around the outer fringes of the sites of the site when I was approached by a policemen with his automatic rifle over his shoulder. “Come” he said, and signalled that I should follow. “Come” he’d repeat when I slowed down, wondering if he was going to take me behind a rock and shoot me. I followed reluctantly, not knowing where I was going, except I could no longer see another soul.
Eventually, we ended up at one of the ‘pylons’… the large wedge shaped buildings that marked the perimeters of the site, except this was half ruined. Anyway, when we got there, there was man standing at a wooden door in the base. It was his turn to say “Come”. He unlocked the door and led me through it, and up steps made 4,000 years ago worn smooth by the feet of ancient Egyptians, until we were high inside the pylon with extensive views across the complex. Of course he wanted money, as did the policeman waiting for us at the bottom, but this was off the tourist trail and well worth a few Egyptian pounds.
Next was the temple complex at Luxor. This was also very good, but I thought to do both Karnak and Luxor before lunch was too much. Karnak was sensory overload, and in an ideal world Luxor would have been better as a separate excursion.
Back to the boat for lunch, and the boat left the quayside as we were eating. After lunch we found a bloody elephant in our cabin!
Then a pleasant afternoon relaxing with cold beers, and watching the Nile country slowly passing.
Sailed as far as Edfu.
Wed Mar 20th
Overnight on the MS Emilio at Edfu, then sail south to Aswan.
Woke up having caught Lin’s cold! Sailed during breakfast, lunch on-board as we travelled. More towel sculptures… this time a monkey was hanging from the ceiling!
Arrived at Kom Ombo around 14:30. Walked from the boat to the Sobek Temple (pretty good), and we were under way again by around 5pm.
Arrived Aswan around 6ish.
Thu Mar 21st
Overnight on the MS Emilio at Aswan.
Streaming cold! Early morning breakfast, then coach into Aswan, then boat to the Temple of Isis on the Island of Philae. Afterwards, the coach took us over the Aswan Low Dam as far as the Aswan High Dam (which created Lake Nasser). We were told not to be seen taking photographs of the dam and the engineering!
Back to Aswan for a trip on a felucca, and then a (compulsory) stop at a well organised perfume factory/shop. It was testament to the strength of the perfumes that some of them managed to get through my blocked sinuses! Found a two foot scorpion on the bed.
Lunch on the boat, and an afternoon of relaxation, photography and beers.
Fri Mar 22nd
Overnight on the MS Emilio at Aswan. Abu Simbel, then sail to Edfu.
3:45am wake-up for the coach trip to Abu Simbel. Buffet breakfast, then a long coach trip south. I thought it’d be an opportunity to catch-up on some sleep, but unfortunately every few kilometers, the coach would slow for speed bumps at checkpoints, so no sleep. A tedious journey, but well worth it.
A long walk from the car park to the Temples of Abu Simbel on the shores of Lake Nasser. Totally overwhelming! Would have been better without the crowds, but still worth all the tribulations. This was in the region of Nubia, and we were just below the Tropic of Cancer.
Back to the boat for lunch, and underway again. Found a crocodile eating our TV remote.
A brief stop at Kom Ombo for passengers who joined in Aswan, and didn’t see it on the way down.
Belly dancers in the bar, but we sat at the back.
Sat Mar 23rd
Overnight on the MS Emilio at Edfu. Then return to Luxor via the Temple of Khnum at Esna.
Set sail during breakfast, watching the Nile Scenery during the morning before stopping to visit the Temple of Khnum at Esna. This temple was buried for millennia, and now mostly excavated, and it was interesting to see the original colours on the painted ‘papyrus’ columns.
Also saw an Egyptian ‘bucket brigade’ taking away rubble from the excavations. Unemployment must be very high.
Just when I thought I’d been checking out the antiquities, turns out I’d spent the morning sat on the bed.
Lunch on the boat.
Last dinner in the evening. Whirling Dervishes in the bar after dinner. Last drinks with Julian, ???, Molly and Chris. Picked up my cartouche pendant which I probably paid too much for!
Sun Mar 24th
Luxor back to Coral Beach Hotel in Hurghada.
Yet another early start. Last breakfast on the boat, then with box lunch, took the coach across the desert to Hurghada. Stopped at every other hotel first. Awful lunch, indifferent dinner.
Mon Mar 25th
Coral Beach Hotel in Hurghada.
Beers, books and crap food.
Tue Mar 26th
Coral Beach Hotel in Hurghada.
More beers, books and crap food. Booked a coral reef trip for tomorrow.
Wed Mar 27th
Coral Beach Hotel in Hurghada.
Coach into Hurghada for coral reef trip in a glass sided boat. We did this just to break the monotony of hotel life, but in fact it was excellent. Strong police presence on the way back to the harbour. Our crew was interrogated, so we ended up delayed by an hour.
Rubbish lunch, then beer and books.
Last night so decided to try the Andiamo Italian restaurant again, so another £14 bottle of wine and a young waiter where we explained about Lin’s lactose intolerance. The meal was one disaster after another, including her starter which was covered in cheese. We eventually had to call for he manager who was very apologetic and offered us a free meal (not knowing it was our last night – I think they ended up up waiving the cost of the wine). The irony was as we were discussing with the manager the dangers of ignoring someone’s dietary needs, the waiter came along and plonked a desert covered in whipped cream in front of Lin!
Thu Mar 28th
Hurghada to Gatwick
A routine flight back, late night arrival, and a noisy (and short) night in a room next to the car park at The Gatwick Belmont Hotel.
Fri Mar 29th
Gatwick to Malaga
Early flight from Gatwick. Landed at Malaga, Picked-up car, then dogs… home around 4pm
Some observations.
On balance, it was a good holiday (the dodgy drinks package notwithstanding!). Valley of the Kings, Karnak, Abu Simbel were just wonderful. In fact the whole Nile cruise was everything we’d hoped for. But as we’re not really the lying-on-the-beach type of people (and it was out of season anyway), the perfect holiday would have involved fewer nights in the hotel (and a better hotel!), and less travel. Perhaps flying direct to Luxor or Aswan.
And why do the Egyptians stallholders and shopkeepers go for the hard sell? We only had to show the slightest interest in something, and suddenly they were in your face, brandishing stuff at you. I understand that because of terrorism, tourism was down, unemployment is high and these people are desperate to do business, but how can they not realise that these tactics are counter-productive?
I watched others in our party when we had to run the gauntlet through the bazaars and stalls. They would look straight ahead and avoid eye contact, so I’m not sure who their selling tactics are supposed to work on, but it wasn’t our group.
Case in point; at the little quayside where we took the boat to Philae, I happened to show interest in a cotton shirt on one of the stalls. The man picked one up and proceeded to go for the hard sell, so I walked off. He of course followed, so perhaps naively, I said “maybe later”. 2 hours later when we got back, he was there on the quayside, spotted me and grabbed my arm and led me to the stall. I was aware that the coach was waiting to leave, so I said something like “very nice, but no thanks”, but he was having none of it, so I offered him the equivalent of 10 euros, which what I was prepared to pay just to get rid of him, but he then went into his bartering spiel, so again I walked away saying take it or leave it. Anyway we did the deal. He then followed me to the coach with his hand out asking for more money. Turns out he’d substituted the shirt for a different one anyway!
We both would have liked to have spent more time browsing some of the stalls… we could see interesting jewellery, shirts, leather goods, etc., perhaps take home some gifts, but the experiences were so unpleasant that we avoided them, and here’s the thing… we ended up taking home most of our spending money!
