Cinque Terre

Date

Activity

Km

Wed Sep 9th

Correze to Grenoble

Lin and I set off from our house in central France, and had an uneventful drive to Grenoble. Dropped our stuff off at the hotel, and met a friend of a friend. She drove us into the centre and dragged us around to see the sights of the town, when all we really wanted after the long drive was a cold beer! Had a forgettable dinner.

429

Thu Sep 10th

Grenoble to Moneglia on the Italian Riviera

A nice journey through the Italian Alps, and then skirted Turin and Genoa.

The approach to Moneglia was on a coast road that used to be a single track railway line. Whenever it went through a tunnel, it was too narrow for two lines of traffic, so each tunnel was traffic-light controlled. It took us 50 minutes to do the last 3 km!

We had booked the apartment at Hotel Giada. It was supposed to sleep 6, but what we got a was a living space with kitchenette, and a bedroom with a double bed and a pair of bunks. In the living space was an elaborate settee which converted into more double bunks. There was a roof terrace with a chink of a sea view, but spectacular views to the mountains up and down the coast. It was well situated for restaurants and the beach, and perfectly adequate for the two of us, or possible even a small family but I think they were overselling it a little.

We were able to drive up to the door for unloading the car, but we had to park a kilometer or so away. Spent the afternoon unpacking and chilling, then went to the Bar Restaurant Giarda, just below the apartment for pizzas. Met a nice Dutch couple, Tjerk and Nine on the next table at the restaurant.

451

Fri Sep 11th

Stayed around Moneglia

I popped to the local panaficio for bread for lunch, and found myself in a queue with maybe 30 other people. They had perhaps 20 bagettes left, so I gave up, but resolved to go a little earlier next time. We spent the morning exploring Moneglia, and as the coastline was so rugged, scrambling up and down rough paths and steps, until we were ready for a beer and a snack.

More exploring in the afternoon, and went to the beach once the crowds had subsided. Even I went in the water; it was a gently shelving beach with clear water and a sandy bottom. It even had a breakwater, so no big waves. Pizzas at our local restaurant for dinner.

0

Sat Sep 12th

Took a train to Riomaggiore.

A lovely sunny morning. I got to the panaficio early… it was still busy, but there was more bread than shoppers, so I took a ticket and waited for my turn. We had lunch on the terrace.

After lunch we walked to Moneglia station and bought tickets to the very picturesque fishing village of Riomaggiore… three or four stops down the coast. Did some exploring when we got there, and spotted Tjerk and Nine also doing the tourist things.

Lin and I then picked up the coastal path, the Via dell’Amore going north to Manarola. The name is because of a chair with a stylised sculpture of a couple kissing, and the many locks left behind by courting couples. But it’s also a beautiful walk with extensive views of the coast. Needed a large beer by the time we got to Manarola.

24

Sun Sep 13th

Stayed around Moneglia

We have no photo record of how we spent the day, but I think we went to the beach at Moneglia.

In the evening, we walked to the apartment of Tjerk and Nine, and they cooked dinner for us. We had a nice evening chilling and chatting.

0

Mon Sep 14th

My birthday. Coast hopping on the ferry to Porto Venere.

Actually, we took a mid-morning train to Monterosso al Mare, and picked up the ferry from there. It coast-hopped, stopping at Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggiore taking about two hours before arriving at Porto Venere.

Had beer by the harbour. We then did a little exploring in the back streets of Porto Venere, then another beer and lunch.

Left Porto Venere around 3 o’clock. Stopped at Riomaggiore and Manarola, and got off at Vernazza. I left Lin by the harbour while I walked up the steep coastal path, the Sentiero Azzurro to take photos looking down on the town.

Rejoined Lin for a well-earned beer, and we then walked up the main thoroughfare to the station. Took the train back, but not before finding ourselves standing on the wrong platform with the train arriving! We watched some poor tourist get fined by the ticket collector for not date stamping his ticket.

Went for a birthday meal, and found that this day was the Moneglia Saint’s day, so watched the various religious processions from our table at the restaurant. Got back to the apartment and watched the fireworks display.

104

Tue Sep 15th

Walked the Sentiero Azzurro from Corniglia to Vernazza.

Another nice day, so we decided to do a proper coastal walk. We took the train from Moneglia to Corniglia, and just missed the shuttle bus from Cornigia station up the hill to the village. Actually, we didn’t – it moved off just as we arrived, and I ran alongside it trying to attract the driver’s attention. Other passengers were shouting to the driver but he ignored them and me, and drove off. Late season cynicism I guess.

Leaving Corniglia, we found the Sentiero Azzurro footpath and headed up the coast towards Vernazza. It was a beautiful walk with fantastic views; the overall trend was downhill as we would eventually end up at sea level, but the path was quite undulating, so after an hour or so we were pleased to find ourselves at Bar Gabbiano. After a beer and a snack, we continued down to Vernazza.

From Vernazza, we could have taken the train, but fancied taking the ferry to Monterosso al Mare, and then took the train. Ravioli dinner on the terrace at the apartment.

22

Wed Sep 16th

Drove to Sestri Levante

Had a nice wander around, plus beer and lunch but the town wasn’t in the same league as the Cinque Terre towns.

For dinner and as it was our last night, we met up with Tjerk and Nine. There was a restaurant we’d all noticed every time we walked to the station. It was called Ristorante Antica Osteria Da U Limottu and looked really nice, in a quite part of town. So we walked there, and since it was mid-week, we hadn’t made a reservation. Big mistake, the place was heaving. Only having a single sitting, they said the only way they could fit us in would be after 10:30pm, so we walked back into town, had a few drinks and then went back and had a decent if slightly late dinner.

24

Thu Sep 17th

Moneglia to Chambéry

Drove through some heavy rain after Genoa. Found a hotel in Chambéry for the night.

430

Fri Sep 18th

Chambéry to Correze

Uneventful journey, but we got home to find that the power had tripped and the contents of two freezers was ruined!

426